Hidden Gems of Italy: Valley of the Mills (Amalfi Coast)

Mention Amalfi and the first things that come to mind are the legendary Amalfi Coast, colorful houses perched on cliffs overlooking the sea, and the Duomo;  few, however, are aware of the nearby nature reserve of the ‘Valle dei Mulini’ o ‘Valle delle Ferriere’. It is a place that encapsulates both the wild beauty of the coast and its rich cultural history.

The Valley of the Mills is a deep crevasse located between the mountains of Scala, the oldest village of the Amalfi Coast, and the hills of Amalfi; it is crossed by the Canneto river and is part of the Monti Lattari Regional Park.

The valley gets its name from the ruins you will encounter along the way of the medieval ironworks (ferriere) of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi, which mainly produced nails for the flourishing local boat industry.

In the past, the water from the river was also used to power the Amalfi area’s flour mills and the numerous paper mills that produced the famous and highly prized ‘carta bambagina,’ favored even by the emperor Frederick II.

Some of the mills date from as early as the second half of the 13th century, and operated for 600 years. 

When you take a hike in the valley, you will indeed stumble across the ruins of the mills, which continued to function until the 18th and 19th centuries, and are now covered in part by vegetation.

The landscape of the valley is fascinating, turning almost tropical at times, with thunderous waterfalls, large boulders covered with moss, and the presence of the protected species woodwardia radicans, a rare example of giant fern dating back to the prehistoric era.

The Valley of the Mills can be reached through various itineraries on foot that start from Amalfi, Scala, Atrani and Agerola. The most comfortable and quite spectacular is the one that starts from the square of Pontone, a hamlet of Scala, about 250 meters above sea level. The initial part of the trail is steep, but later flattens to become a more moderate trek. The path finishes in the town of Amalfi and takes about three hours to complete.